Pattern of skinny trousers for women size 46. Pattern of skinny women's trousers

Shopping, choosing a style and model that will fit and sit perfectly, unreasonably high prices in stores - these and many other problems are experienced by most girls. Some give up looking for their exact model, others buy for a lot of money, and still others go and buy fabric to sew what fits perfectly.

What is a base pattern and where can I find it?

A sample is required to sew a product. This layout is called a pattern.

Pattern - details of clothing that are made on the basis of the drawing. It consists of several parts, the choice of which depends on what needs to be sewn. It is very convenient to use such a basis for creating small details.

There are several patterns on one sheet. On specially marked lines, you can find exactly your model.

The details that are indicated on the base may not always fit perfectly to the figure, which is absolutely normal. In this case, the hostess herself adjusts the thing for herself. The main thing is to take the basis for what needs to be sewn.

Often patterns can be found in specialized magazines such as Burda, or on the Internet.

Required Tools

To facilitate the work, there are many items for needlework.

When creating trousers use:

paper for redrawing patterns;
chalk or pencil;
needles;
threads of the desired color;
centimeter tape;
sewing machine;
bias tape or overlock to finish the edges;
other small details necessary for the design of the model: zipper, buttons, elastic band, etc.

How to take measurements?

The first thing to start with is taking measurements. For accurate measurements, it is better to take them in underwear. The main tool at this stage will be a centimeter tape, with which you need to make measurements:

waist circumference (at the waist in the narrow part);
hip circumference (over a wide area);
side length (interval along the lateral region of the leg from the waist to the end of the leg);
seat height (measurements are made while sitting and look at the interval from the waist to the seat of the chair);
knee height (on the lateral part from the waistline to the middle of the kneecap);
step length (with legs slightly apart, measured from the groin of the inner thigh to the floor).

For information on how to take measurements correctly, see the following video.

Drawing techniques

Italian

A step-by-step explanation of sewing trousers is a great support for beginner seamstresses.

One of the most accessible is the instruction for drawing a basic pattern using Italian technology.

This technique is great for sewing trousers for women who have a strong back curve. This problem is solved by shifting the side seam to the center of the back area by 1 cm. Due to this, the model will sit in the belt and on the hips.

In this technology, the manufacture of straight women's trousers is considered.

The first thing to do is to take measurements. In addition to the usual measurements, do:

an increase in the waist;
thigh gain. Their level depends on how the product will fit.

It is worth going from the front panel of the trousers:

Mark A is fixed in the upper right corner. From this point, two more marks are drawn one after the other. From mark B in the left direction, a line equal to 1⁄4 (thigh girth + PB) is drawn and mark B1 is made, and 0.5 from B - mark B2.
To the left of C, a thread equal to BB1 is drawn - C1. And on the right, 1/20 of the hip circumference is C2.
Now you need to connect A, B2 and C2. The middle seam will come out.

From mark A, mark A1 is drawn and marked - 1/4 of the waist circumference + 3 centimeters. From this mark, 1 centimeter is drawn and is designated A2.
Next, A2, B1, C1 are connected.
Mark D is placed in the middle of C1C2. From it, a perpendicular to A1A is drawn to the upper section, and mark E is indicated. From this border, VC is calculated downward, a line is drawn and it is marked D1. From the marked mark, the leg length is calculated. This will be the F border.
In the right and left directions from D1, lines are drawn equal to 1/2 of the circumference of the knee. Right mark D3, left mark D2.
Points F1F2 are built on the sides of the label F. They are equal to the distance of the line D2D3.
Now you need to connect the marks C2, D2, F2 - this is the inner seam. When connecting C1, D3, F1, an external seam is formed. And the line D, D1, F made earlier will be the middle of these two seams.

To get the front tuck, you need to set aside 1 centimeter from the mark E in both directions and mark these points E1, E2. From the main mark E go down 10 centimeters and mark E3. Connect the constructed points.
In order for the front to be ready, you need to draw lines from A2 to E1, from E1 to E3, from E3 to E2, from E2 to A.

The back side is built on the drawing of the front part:

In order not to confuse the lines, you should use chalk, pencil or a marker of different colors.
A segment of 1/2 AE + 2 centimeters is measured from line A on the left side and marked with a mark H. An indent of 2 centimeters is made from this mark and a line marked H1 is drawn.
Now you need to measure 1/2 of the circumference of the hips and from point C to the left put C3. Next, draw a straight line from this point to H1.
From C3 make a line to the right, equal to 1/10 of the hips, and mark C4.
Now you should return to line A. Make an Italian shift of the side seam: from H by 1/4 waist circumference - 1 centimeter + 2 centimeters and mark H2. From it, a perpendicular line is drawn up 1 cm and H3 is placed, connecting with H1.
Next, draw a direction to L. It is obtained by crossing B1B2 and H1C3.
A smooth guide 1/4 of the hip circumference to L1 is drawn to the left section from the L mark.
To get the outer seam, you need to connect H3, L1. To form the middle seam, you need to draw a segment from L to C4.
Next, sections of the knee and bottom are made based on the back half. To do this, set aside 1.5 cm in the direction of increase from the marks D2, D3, F1, F2 and designate them G, G1, F3, F4. For a purl and front seam, make a smooth line between L1, G, F3 and C4, G1, F4.
When forming a recess on the back, you need to refer to H1H3. In the middle, mark the point M. From it move 1 cm in both directions and parallel to H1 L, set aside 14 cm down. M1, M2, N are formed.

Finish the pattern by checking the length at the inside and outside seams. If it matches, then you can proceed directly to sewing.

According to Muller

Among the simplest technologies, there is a Muller construction scheme. This technique is a construction for beginners.

The pattern is built on a standard model of pants.

The main base of the drawing is a vertical line, on which segments 1 and 2 are highlighted. The length of the segments depends on the shape of the hips. On average, you can measure 1.5 cm.
BC is measured by borders 1 and 3. VC is marked with points 3, 4. The length from the side to the foot is indicated by marks 1-5.
5 and 6 will be indicated by the measurement, which corrects the length, the choice of which is subject to the model and the height of the heel.
Marks 3-7 indicate the hip area. Next, build straight lines from marks 2, 7, 3, 4, 6 to the right.
The width of the front section of the legs is noted in paragraphs 7-8. The SS of the front half, measured 1/10 of the half of the OB + 1 cm, is fixed in marks 8-9. To get marks 8a and 10, you need to draw a line through mark 8.

On line 7-9, you need to find the middle and place a mark 11. Next, you need to mark the segment 6-12. It will fit 7-11.
To get the middle of the front half, it is necessary to form from the waist mark through marks 13 and 14 at the intersection with the knee and waist marks.
From 15-16 make a straight line equal to 4-8 centimeters and mark points 15a and 16a. To align the corners at marks 15a and 16a, it is necessary to combine 7 and 15a, 9 and 16a. After that, marks 17, 18, 19 are obtained.
Row 10-20, which determines the deviation of the cutting paths of the bow of the front region of the legs, is 1 cm.
From mark 8, make a mark in the right direction, 0.5 centimeters long. Draw a straight line through this mark and boundary 20. 8a and 8b are equal to half of the segment 8a-17. Next, draw an additional segment 8b-17.

Now you need to make the front cut line:

From it, make a short segment to the waist mark. The distance between the intersection of the straight line and the waist mark corresponds to 3-5 cm on the right side of the main vertical line. To achieve the desired shape at the border of the knees, it is worth varying the distance between marks 18 and 23 and marks 19 and 24 from 0 to 1 cm.
The side cut line is formed by a curve using the connection 22, 7, 3a, 23, 15a, 15.
The step cut line is made by connecting points 17, 24, 16a, 16.
Segment 14-22 should be divided into two parts, for this it is necessary to draw a straight line to the mark of the hips.

The back half of the leg is built on the basis of the front:

From mark 11, point 25 should be made, for this you need to move 1-2 cm to the right. Then make a straight line from 25. The distance from this point to the future mark will fit 1/4 of the width of the back. This point will be called 26. The line of the middle cut of the butt is determined by the interval between marks 3a and 27. This segment takes 3-5 cm.
Next, combine 26 and 27. From 26, make lines in the upper and lower directions.
The waistline and hips need to be increased. At the waist make a way to the left. At the hips to the right and to the left.
Segment 26-27 move up until it touches the straight line of the hips and mark the mark 28-29 there.
Next, draw 2 straight lines from the bottom to the knee on both sides of the fold at a distance of 2 cm from each other. This is how points 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a are formed.
To form a mark 35, it is necessary to make a line from mark 32 through 29 until it touches the waist.
Combine mark 31 with 30. Depending on the gluteal forms, make the interval between marks 13 and 36 equal to 13-35 minus 0-1 cm. Merge 35-36 with each other.
From mark 36, make a segment with a distance of 0.5-1 cm in the left direction to 36-35. Thus, a mark of 37 is obtained. At this stage, you can begin to design the upper border of the middle cut of the trousers. To do this, you need to combine 37 38. The distance between these marks will be equal to 1/4 of the waist circumference + 3-4 cm + 0.5 cm.
Next, draw a straight line from 38 up. Here, draw the border of the side cut of the buttocks. This length is equal to the length of the front region of the trousers.
It is necessary to issue a tuck. It must be marked on the back section perpendicular to the line 36-35. The length should be 13-15 centimeters.
At this stage, it is necessary to form the threads of the step cut and the waist. The length of the step cut of the back and front must be equal. You should begin to design the middle cut.

In this case, a step is considered to be a comparison of two parts, adjusting the border of the cut of the waist and darts.

How to increase the pattern to the desired size, how to reduce?

Finished patterns are always made in accordance with the standard figure. But do not be upset, because you can increase or decrease to a specific size.

You should carefully examine the back and front legs and cut along a vertical line in the middle and move apart by 0.5-1 cm to enlarge. To reduce, move the details by 0.5-1 cm.

To increase the length in the pattern, it is necessary to add 2-3 centimeters from the bottom. See the video for how it's done.

Perfect fit trousers: adjustment rules

Ideal trousers are their perfect fit, able to hide figure flaws and correct them somewhere. But hand-sewn trousers are not always perfect. To do this, you need to refer to the rules of adjustment.

Usually problems arise with the thigh area. For example, if a girl has full hips, then this contributes to the formation of folds. To get rid of creases, you can work a little on the pattern. In front of the trousers, it is necessary to make two segments 10-15 centimeters above the step limit by 2-3 cm and 10 cm below. Next, compare the result. Cut along the marks. Place the resulting part in the left area by 1-3 centimeters and mark this side border. The same must be done with the rear section.

With skinny legs creates an image of baggy. This can be avoided by removing excess volume. It is necessary to measure the OH from above and compare the resulting figure with the value on the pattern. Next, calculate the difference between the two numbers, and set aside 1/4 of the calculated value for the side and step areas of the butt and front, and thereby shorten the width of the leg in the area of \u200b\u200bthe leg circumference at the top.

With insufficient volume of the buttocks a large accumulation of material is formed. To correct it, you need to lower the waistline by the desired amount and reduce the LH in the back area.

To get rid of wrinkles under the buttocks, you need to work with ready-made trousers:

On the finished product, you need to pin the excess fabric into one fold on one of the legs from the side seam to the middle. This wrinkle must be removed.
Next, open the middle seam in the area from the step line to the waist.
Next, connect the two legs with the outer parts.
When comparing, the excess on an unsplit leg should be moved up along the middle seam.
The new border should be transferred to the other half of the leg at the bottom.
Next, stitch the middle seam along a new line, and cut off the excess in the allowance. And remove the excess in length in the area of \u200b\u200bthe belt.

In the reverse situation - protruding gluteal zone, folds and creases form in its lower part. To correct this problem, on the back of the pants, measure 11 cm from the step line to the upper and lower sides and draw 2 parallel 12-15 centimeters each. Then connect their ends. According to the resulting features, cut the pattern. Shift the cropped one to the right literally by 1-3 cm and create segments for the middle seam of the back and step.

Basics of Modeling

Low waist

Modeling makes it possible to create perfect pants, taking into account all the special figures. All models are formed on the basis of a standard pattern of trousers.

Before you start modeling the option with a low waist, you need to move away from the waist by 2 cm on both sides. After you need to make a new low border and cut off along it.
When creating the front of a narrowed model, first you need to narrow the trousers down to about 14 cm. Focusing on your height, shorten to the desired measure. Next, you need to determine the area of the entrance to the pocket. To do this, measure 4 cm to the right at the waist and down 14 cm. The resulting undercut must be converted into a fold. For a zipper, you need an increase of 3-4 cm in width and 14 cm in length.
To obtain additional volume in the area of the hips and the second fold, you need to cut the pattern along the line of the arrow and move it apart by 4 cm.
To create the back of the trousers, you need to narrow it by 15 cm and reduce it. In width, the back leg reaches 1-2 cm.

With smell

The creation of trousers requires the formation of the back lobe:

Therefore, you should measure 5 cm down from the waist and draw an underestimated segment.
Draw a yoke from the already updated waist contour. Its parts should be cut off, cut into grooves and glued together. Its top and bottom should be rounded.
The narrowing of the trousers at the bottom and at the knee also depends on personal desires.
When modeling the front part, you should reduce the waistline by 5-6 cm. Then narrow it in the knee area and down. Draw the features of two seams: side and step. Next, transfer before to tracing paper twice. Fold the two halves along the middle line of the front.
To continue modeling, set aside in the left direction 5 cm from the side line, back down 14 cm.

To create a smell, you need to break the front along the waist in half. Step back 10 cm from the knee area and combine the created marks with a line. From the resulting create a strip of smell.
All details of red and lilac color must be re-shot on tracing paper. The red triangle is mirrored in the left area. The lilac part must be combined with a red triangle. On the side line and waist, all straight lines and round the corners.
Additionally, draw two parts of the belt 5 cm wide and in length corresponding to the length of the upper part of the trousers.

For pregnant

For full

The production of trousers for full ones begins with a front pattern:

On a vertical segment, set aside the height of the seat (points 1-2), VK (1-3), DB (3-4), create the desired length (1-5), half-girth of the hips + 3 cm (5-6) and the line of the hips ( 3-7), width of the front half (7-8), half-girth of the hips + 1.5 cm (8-9).
At marks 2, 3, 4, 7 make a segment. Make a perpendicular to the hip area from mark 8. In contact with the BC and the waist, mark 8a and 10.
From mark 12, make a straight line through 11. When crossing the knee and waist marks, 13 and 14 are placed.
From 12, measure to the upper region 4-8 cm and mark 15a and 16a. Combine marks 7 and 15a, 9 and 16a. Against this background, make 3a, 17, 18, 19.
From 8 in the right direction, measure 0.5 cm. Measure half of the segment 8a-17 from 8a upwards and thereby get 8b. Combine the resulting mark with 17.
Mark 21 is formed from 10 by depositing 1/4 OT + an increase in tuck and loose fit. If in the upper edge straight to the waist move 1.5 cm, then 22 is formed.
In the line of the knee from the ends, measure 1 cm to the inside - marks 23, 24. mark the segments of the side and step cut.
The undercut should be built to a depth of 10 cm and a solution of 1.5 cm. At the end, complete the creation of the waist.

When converting the back side, you need to copy the front half and add corrections:

Measure the back fold area from mark 11 by 1-2 cm. From 25 make the width of the back half - 0.5 cm. Sign 27 is formed by depositing 3-5 cm from point 3a. Close marks 26 and 27.
The line of the hips and waist should be increased. The width of the back leg should be made from 28 to contact with the thigh area.
31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a are made by drawing the features of the side and step sections two cm from the front sections.
The path from 32 through 29 to the waist creates a mark of 35. Connect 35 to 36 and set aside 1 cm to the left. So it turns out 37. From this point, measure 1/4 of the waist circumference + 3-4 cm of the tuck + 0.5 cm of an increase in loose fit . Point 38 is marked here.
It is necessary to move the side cut lines of the front side to the part of the side cut of the back half.
The undercut is built with a length of 13-15 cm. At the end, you need to complete the waist area with a middle section of the back section of the trousers.

How to sew with your own hands?

Many girls are apprehensive about sewing trousers, considering this product to be difficult. One that is difficult is possible. You have to start with measurements. In order for the pants to sit perfectly on the figure, it is necessary to take measurements correctly. Measurements must be taken from the naked body. Press the measuring tape tightly against the body.

By your own standards, you can start building a pattern. When creating a pattern, your own measurements and values \u200b\u200bthat were obtained using calculations by your own measurements are used.

After the base of the pattern is ready, you can start modeling. To do this, you need to choose a model of pants or trousers and, using the samples already presented in magazines and the Internet, create your own style.

After you need to choose a fabric. All materials with elastane are suitable for trousers. You can also use wool, satin and linen.

Before sewing, it is advised to iron the fabric.

It remains to cut out the details and sew.

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Correcting the pattern of trousers. To make the pants fit well

For a single piece of clothing, fit on the figure is so unimportant as for trousers! And, unfortunately, it is not guaranteed even for those whose measurements completely coincide with the standard ones. (Under the standard sizes we will understand the sizes presented in the table in fashion magazines).

Consider what can be done to trousers they sat well, both at the stage of adjusting the pattern, and in ready-made trousers.

Correction trousers Depending on the size, it can be produced according to several basic parameters.

Length

Determine the difference between your height and standard. By this amount, it is necessary to shorten or lengthen the pattern.

Width

If your measurements of the waist or hips differ from the standard ones - in the pattern trousers necessary changes must be made.

seated height

This is a control value, it is not in the table. Take this measurement yourself in a sitting position: from the waistline to the plane of the chair. See also the article: "Adjustment of the finished pattern of trousers" Adjustment of the finished pattern of trousers"

On the pattern of the back part, draw an additional line, perpendicular to the share. This line should pass through the bottom of the middle seam line.

Set aside the seat height from this line (1).

Important: height trousers when sitting may vary depending on the model.

For example, in a very tight-fitting model of trousers, the crotch seams (middle seam) fit snugly to the body. For wide trousers such as pajamas or with pleats at the waist, the height of the trousers when sitting should be greater. the crotch is more or less low.

To check the desired height of the trousers when sitting, glue the pattern pieces along the lines of the crotch and side seam, try on a half of the trousers. If the height of the trousers when sitting is not enough, cut the paper patterns of the front and back halves of the trousers across at a height of about 15 cm from the waistline and add the desired length (2).

If height trousers when sitting is too large, then pin the excess length along the hips (3) in the form of a transverse fold.

Hip girth

This is a very important benchmark for tight-fitting trousers and with non-standard hip width. On the details of the patterns, it is measured directly at the lower point of the middle seam. Here the main rule is the measured value plus 4 cm. If there is not enough width up to 1.5 cm, then it is added to the pattern of the back half along the crotch line to the level of the knees (4).

If the difference in width is greater, then you can expand the pattern further along the line of the side seams.

Protruding buttocks

Trousers stretched on the buttocks, the side seams go back, the seam of attaching the belt is pulled down.

Usually trousers they sit like this in the case (5), if the buttocks are slightly larger than it is provided in the pattern.

Correction of finished trousers:

Ready trousers you can add width at the side seams and crotch seams of the back halves, the length can be added at the seam of attaching the belt.

Correction of "trial" trousers:

If you are going to sew trousers from expensive material, it is advisable to first sew a trial version from inexpensive material.

In "trial" trousers make cuts along the most stretched places along the lobar from the waist almost to the knees and along the transverse almost to the side seams. Pin strips of fabric under the cuts (6).

Paper pattern correction:

Mark the direction of the share along the line of the middle of the back part.

To add the desired width, draw two auxiliary dotted lines:

- at the height of the knees, an auxiliary vertical line, perpendicular to the share;

- from the top of the back tuck to the point of intersection of the line of direction of the shared thread and the drawn auxiliary transverse line (7).

Cut the pattern along the line of the middle of the depth of the tuck and then along the auxiliary line to the level of the knees, and then along the drawn transverse line to the side edges. Add the desired width of the pattern in the form of a tuck to the line of the knees. Mark the tuck again, while the top of the tuck runs exactly along the line of the middle of the wedge-shaped insert. The pattern is also slightly expanded along the crotch line (8).

To lengthen the pattern, draw a horizontal auxiliary line perpendicular to the direction line of the grain thread and passing through the top of the tuck. Draw a vertical line in the middle between the side seam line and the tuck.

- from the line of the back middle seam along the horizontal line almost to the line of the side seam - from the upper edge of the part along the vertical line almost to the horizontal cut.

Add the length to the horizontal wedge-shaped cut: at the line of the middle back seam 1-2 cm, at the vertical cut - another 0.5-1 cm at the side seam, add nothing. Thanks to these manipulations, a second tuck is formed at the vertical incision, which is necessary for full buttocks. Because the first tuck has become very deep due to the increase in width, then reduce it by half and add this value to the second tuck.

Draw a new tuck 2-3 cm shorter than the original. Line up the side seam line.

Draw a new grain line on the top of the pattern, extending the grain line from the bottom of the pattern up to the top edge of the piece (9).

Trousers with a good fit will be worn for a long time and with pleasure.

Modeling Lesson: How to Sew Pants

Evgenia Rodina

fashion designer

Building and fitting trousers is not an easy task even for an experienced tailor. In order to be sure of success, you need a well-adjusted and well-fitted base pattern. You can build it using any method, or you can generate it on our website. Building a pattern according to your measurements will not take a minute, and after payment and receipt, you can print it on any printer. Here is a detailed description of how. Its cost is small, but its value is huge. Proof of this is the positive feedback sent from different parts of the country and even from abroad.

« I want to say a huge thank you for the patterns through the generator. I sewed trousers, I just want to cry from happiness, because the size is 60. Two summer trousers in the cut. Thanks again to all the employees of this project for their great help ... »

« I am a large girl, size 58-60, so I was very surprised when the trousers sewn according to the basic pattern fit perfectly from the first fitting. I experienced a real shock. It was a week ago. Now I am sewing two more pairs already from expensive fabric. To say that I am satisfied is not enough! I am endlessly happy! Thank you. »

“... I already used the pattern of trousers. I liked using the service: easy, accessible and understandable, and inexpensive. Thank you. I will explore other sections as well. I will definitely recommend to interested friends. All the best. Further success and development ... "

It's great to receive such feedback from you! When you realize that your work is useful, you experience incomparable pleasure. Here on this wave, we decided to go further and publish a lesson on modeling trousers for you. We hope that it will be useful to you. Let's learn how to model such models.

Pattern of palazzo trousers

The first model of trousers that we will consider is the palazzo trousers. Loose, flared from the hip, they resemble a skirt-pants. Very comfortable at any time of the year, in summer they are indispensable. Sewn from fine viscose jersey, silk, linen .. pleasantly flow down the leg and! importantly, hide the flaws, if any.

For modeling, we need a pattern-base of trousers, scissors and glue.

With the first step, from the points formed by the intersection of the lines of the side seam and the line of the hips, and the end points of the seam of the seat on both halves of the trousers, lower the perpendiculars to the line of the bottom of the trousers.

The second step in modeling the palazzo trousers pattern. To achieve the desired flared shape, it is necessary to cut the pattern parts along the marked lines from the bottom up to the top of the tucks on both halves. Having closed part of the solution of the tucks, we open them at the bottom, thus obtaining the required width of the trousers along the bottom.

Let's outline the width of the finishing part, lampas, its width can be different, according to your desire, in straight lines along the line of the side seam, perpendicular to the bottom. Having cut off along the marked lines, the parts are compatible into one. The tuck solution along the side seam can be left in the center of the part, or it can be distributed in the stitching seam to the main parts of the halves of the trousers.

The top cut of trousers is processed by a stitched belt. Cut it out in the form of a straight line 7 cm wide (without allowances for seams), in finished form (in the fold) 3.5 cm, and a length equal to the circumference of the waist. We suggest making a fastener in any seam with a hidden zipper.

Jogger pants pattern

Trousers - joggers have a definite advantage - they are very comfortable. Their loose but not too loose fit at the hips, slightly dropped waistline and seat, soft ribbed cuffs and elasticated top, material performance - all this ensures comfort and ease of style. It is worth wearing them in everyday life, although they are made of silk, lurex fabrics ... they can also become the subject of an evening wardrobe. In our photo, the model of trousers is Ralph Lauren joggers, they are made of high quality soft jersey.

Let's start modeling by checking the gains along the hip line. After you have printed the pattern, take a measuring tape in your hands and measure both parts of the trousers along the hip line, compare the result with your measurements + an increase in fit freedom. We recommend an increase to OB 6-8 cm for this model. If the pattern in the hip area does not match your request, it is easy to correct.

It is necessary to cut the details of the pattern along the center and move apart by the missing amount. See drawing.

Lower seat line.

Do not forget to shorten the legs to the width of the elastic cuff.

Cuffs - elastic bands on the bottom of the trousers are cut out with rectangular parts with a width equal to their doubled width in the finished form, plus an allowance for a stitching seam (1 cm), and a length equal to the circumference of the ankle, plus a small (1.5-3 cm) increase in freedom of fitting, plus an allowance for the seam.

The belt is also cut out in the form of a rectangle with a length of OT + an increase in the freedom of fitting 2-3 cm and a seam allowance equal to twice the width in the finished form.

On the outside, in the center of the belt, punch two blocks or overcast two loops to thread the cord.

The cuffs and the waistband must be sewn slightly stretching, equalizing the cuts of the trousers and the details of the processing.

Pocket. Make a pocket with an overlay seam, bending the sections inward, process the section of the entrance to the pocket into a hem or edging.

Pattern of cigarette trousers

The next model, which we have chosen for the lesson, is elegant and graceful. Pants - cigarettes - are very popular, they add sexuality and grace to women's legs.

Modeling it is not at all difficult. Having a well-fitting pattern-base, you can easily cope with this task.

Just narrow the pants and adjust the length. For narrowing, you need to know exactly the desired width of the trousers along the bottom and in the knee area - for control. This can be done simply by removing the parameters from the figure, plus an increase in the freedom of the fit. The recommended increase in the knee area is 8-12 cm, along the bottom 5-10 cm. The value depends on the fabric, because you can use fabrics with a high content of elastane. Decided? Then measure the pattern in these places, modeling may not be needed!

If the base pattern turned out to be wider (narrower) - we will correct it.

In order not to lose the proportions of the trousers, the excess (missing) value must be corrected with the same segments on each side of the side seam along the bottom and the knee line, on both halves of the trousers. See drawing.

Process the top of the trousers with a stitched belt, which is cut out in the form of a rectangle with a length equal to the measure From, plus an allowance for freedom and an allowance for the fastener. The width of the belt is 3 cm in ironed finished form. The fastener of cigarette trousers will look best in the side seam, on a hidden zipper.

Modeling skinny trousers

Hi, I'm modeling flute pants. In this post, narrow, in the next classic version with a pleat.

I model the pattern on the finished basis.

So, for tight trousers I do

Raising the instep and narrowing the inseam

Front half

I draw a straight line to the knee, just as an auxiliary.

Correcting the middle line

Back half

I increase the rotation of the rear half

With a narrow width of the trousers at the knee, so that when the legs are raised, the trousers do not go down from the waist along the back, the rotation of the back half is increased. So to speak, to preserve the dynamic properties of the trousers.

The more the buttocks protrude, the greater the opening.

Correcting the middle line.

When combining the front and rear halves along the lines of the arrow and the knee (bottom), the distance between the middle lines must be at least 10 mm.

Front leg

Hem and knee widths

The width along the bottom is selected approximately in the range of 30 - 34 cm around the entire circumference. The distance from the middle of the leg in both directions is calculated as Width / 4 - 0.5 cm.

The width along the knee line should not be less than the girth of the knee in a bent state.

Lateral and step lines

Back leg same lines

If the pants will sit on the natural waist line, then the belt will be just a straight rectangular.

If the waist line is lowered, then the belt should be undercut so that it fits well to the figure and does not bulge.

We make a lowered waist by lowering the waistline by the desired amount.

It can be useful:

How to build a side pocket with a flared barrel and a codpiece clasp, see here.

The order of sewing straight women's trousers. The post contains the complete process of creating trousers, go straight to tailoring. The sequence of steps is the same.

We sew trendy tight sexy skinny and cargo pants!

SKINNY (skinny) - tight trousers or jeans, ranging from "pencils" (pencil leg) and ending with jeggings (jeans + leggings) are still very relevant.

And it's an illusion that skinny fit only thin people!
Look at Kim Kardashian, Rihanna and Sofia Vergara who look very attractive in them. Skinny in different interpretations, colors, textures and details can be found at 7 For All Mankind, Balmain, Burberry, Chanel, Dsquared, J Brand, Notify, Roberto Cavalli, Victoria Beckham Denim, True Religion, Black Orchid - and count on the fact that in the near future they will disappear, fortunately, it is not necessary.

Jeggings, unlike leggings, do not require covering our ass, which gives us the freedom to choose the top of the wardrobe.

CARGO
According to fashion experts, 2010 was marked by Houlihan jeans from J Brand, which were sold out in America and Europe with incredible excitement! It was in this model of jeans that Gwen Stefani, Renne Zellweger, Gwyneth Paltrow, Charlize Theron, Eva Longoria, Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker, Fergie, Cindy Crawford and many, believe me, many others were seen. Good things don't disappear without a trace.

And in 2011, many designers picked up this trend, slightly expanding and evolving it in their collections:
7 For All Mankind, Balmain, Black Orchid, Current/Elliott, Dsquared, J Brand, Stella McCartney, True Religion, Work Custom. This season, in addition to the already popular olive and gray colors of cargo jeans, a new, no less delightful beige has been added.

All models are modeled on the same basic pattern - tight tight trousers.

The pattern is built according to the method of "Muller and son".

Size 44. Hips 88-92cm. The rest of the dimensions are built in the same way.

measurements
How to take measurements - read here.

From the photo you can see that the pants are very tight fitting. So you need to sew them only from elastic fabrics, otherwise you will not be able to sit down or raise your leg in them. We do not make any additions to the fit, even negative ones. We take measurements as they are.

We make the necessary calculations

Lsh - Step length. Lw=Dsb-Sun=106-25=80cm

Vk - Height of the knee. Vk \u003d Lsh / 2 - Lsh / 10 \u003d 80/2 - 80/10 \u003d 32cm

Shpb - the width of the front half. Shpb \u003d OB / 4 - 1 \u003d 92/4 - 1 \u003d 22cm

Shzb - the width of the back half. Shzb \u003d ABOUT / 1 + 1 \u003d 92/4 + 1 \u003d 24cm.

We build a pattern-the basis of tight trousers

From this base, in the future, you can model and sew any tight denim or leather trousers.

1-3 Seat height. Sun=25cm

3-4 Knee height Vk=32cm

1-5 Pants length on the side (with heel) Dsb=106cm

5-6 Ankle level. The difference between Dsb - Dsh \u003d 106-96 \u003d 10 cm. Optionally, you can make pants length to the ankle, or to the knee. In my case, I will not do anything, I want such as in the photo, long.

3-7 Hip line. OB/20 + 3cm = 92/20 + 3 = 7.6cm

From points 2, 7, 3, 4, 5 draw perpendicular lines to the right.

7-8 Width of the front half of the trousers Shpb = 22cm

8-9 Step width of the front half of the trousers OB / 20 + 0.5 (for all sizes) = 92/20 + 0.5 = 5.1 cm

Draw a perpendicular through point 8, put points 8a and 10 at the intersections.

Here's what we have, drawing 1:

Buildings to drawing 2

11 half cut 7-9

Through point 11 draw up the line of the arrow - we get points 13 and 14.

12-15 and 12-16 1/4 Pants bottom width minus 0.5 cm. 21/4 - 0.5 = 4.8cm

15a-16a lower the perpendiculars down to the bottom line.

7-15a and 9-16a Draw flank and stride lines. 17, 18, 19 we get at the intersection.

from 8 to the right set aside 0.5 cm.

8a - 8b copy half of the segment 8a-17. Connect points 8b and 17 with an auxiliary straight line.

Draw a smooth cut line for the bow, see drawing 2.

Extend the bow line, draw a straight line perpendicular to it. This line will cross the waist line at a distance of 5 cm from the arrow line.

20-21 OT/4+1cm = 68/4+1=18cm

21-22 \u003d 1-2 In our case, 1.5 cm. Make a cut of the waist with a smooth line.

Make a side cut by connecting 22 and 7.

18-23 and 19-24 narrowing depending on the desired shape of the trousers.

23-24 Should equal 2* (1/4 Width at the knee minus 0.5 cm). 2*(34/4-0.5)=16cm.

Back half. Buildings to drawing 3

The construction of the rear half is carried out on the drawing of the front.

11-25 removal of the arrow on the back half of the trousers - 2 cm.

25-26 Shzb/4+0.5cm = 6+0.5=6.5cm

26-27 straight cut. From v.26 restore perpendiculars up and down.

Extend the waist and hips to the left and right.

28-29 The line of the level of the hips of the back half of the trousers. The line is Wzb-1cm=24-1=23cm. It is parallel to the segment 26-27 and perpendicular to 28-36, should cross the line of the hips of the front half.

25-30=25-29=17.3cm

On the bottom line, set aside 1 cm to the right and left of the side lines, as well as on the knee line. Draw a side line and a step line, getting points 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a.

From 32 through 29, draw a straight line to the intersection with the waist line - we get 35.

Connect 30 and 31.

13-36 \u003d cut (13-35) + 3 cm \u003d 61.3 cm. At the intersection with the line of the rear middle cut, we get 36.

35-36 connect.

37-38 FROM / 4 - 1cm + 1.5cm (tuck) \u003d 68 / 4-1 + 1.5 \u003d 17.5cm

In the middle of the segment 37-38, draw a perpendicular and on the sides of it put a back tuck 1.5 cm long 8-10 cm.

From 38, draw a short perpendicular upwards.

Copy the line of the side cut of the front half, combine it along the line of the thigh of the back half and turning, find the intersection with the perpendicular from p.38. So leave it - we got the line of the side seam of the back.

Draw a waistline.

31-39 Back crotch length. 0.5cm shorter than the front crotch length.

37-39 Draw a line for the middle cut of the back half of the trousers.

Here is the pattern we need for modeling - the basis of tight-fitting trousers

Let's model the dark blue suede trousers from Balmain.

Lower the waist line 2 cm down. Draw a belt line, 4 cm wide.

We put the position and size of the welt pockets “in the frame” on the base pattern. Width 15mm, length 12cm. Don't forget the pockets and 2cm pocket piping.

We apply lines of relief seams, arbitrarily, approximately like on the original. My model is already sewn, so you can apply it like mine.

We apply a yoke line on the back, the width along the middle line is 6-7 cm.

We carry out a tuck on the back half. It is needed so that the fabric under the gluteal fold fits well to the body and does not sag. The width of the tuck is 1.5-2 cm. But you can do it only if the fabric stretches a little (2-5% elasticity) and when building the base pattern, you did not make negative increases for elastic fabrics.

We draw a pocket, on it we also need to put the lines of the tuck and the welt pocket “in the frame”.

In order to sew this model from leather or leather.zam. the fabric will need glue “moment” shoe for the skin (for some knots), thread for the skin, 6 metal clasps, the material itself, a trouser hook.

Leather should not be ironed through a damp iron. Only defend with a very hot iron.

And now ideas from fashion designers!

How to sew trousers with your own hands?

Hello, my dear readers of the Shasomnoy.rf blog. Now we will sew fashion trousers with low seat line and 7/8 length.

The following ready-made pattern for download is designed for the following sizes:

St=38
Sat=50
Height to knee from waist=56
Half circumference of the knee=22
Pants width at the bottom = 33 cm (for narrow calves)
Pants length 93 cm.

If you fit on the hips, then the rest of the measurements can be corrected.

If you want to build trousers pattern for yourself, be sure to check out these two articles:

They walk through the whole process step by step. building a pattern of trousers according to your measurements.

Download the pattern and cut out the details from the fabric. I sew from costume non-stretch fabric. You can take any suit or denim, as you wish.

Cut out the front of the trousers:

Cut out the back of the pants:

We mark on the details of the trousers the control points of the knee line and the undercut.

We cut out the details of the pocket and the slope (it will need to be built using a codpiece pattern). We will consider this point a little later.

Drawstring and zipper in trousers.

We cut and glue the details of the belt and the facing with doubler.

Sew up the undercut on the back halves of the trousers. We iron the allowances to the center of the trousers (back middle seam).

We make side pockets on the front halves of the trousers.

We connect both halves of the trousers (front and back) from knee reference point first up, then down. Fasten with pins or tack.

We sew both halves of the trousers on a typewriter. Here's what should happen:

Now we will process the bottom of the trousers. Initially, I laid 2 cm allowances at the bottom so that 1 cm could be folded twice. We first turn the bottom of the trousers 1 cm. Let's iron this place.

Then we tuck it another 1 cm. Iron it.

We sew on a typewriter, make sure that the seam is even and there are no wrinkles anywhere on the fabric.

Once again, iron the finished bottom of the trousers.

Now you need to process the zipper in the trousers and make a belt.

We pin or tack the finished belt face to face to the upper cut of the trousers.

We sew the belt to the trousers on a typewriter.

We turn the belt inside out so that both its parts (outer and inner) are face to face. Now you need to sew up the sides of the belt so that they smoothly pass into the codpiece. Baste and stitch along the allowance line the sides of the belt. (as pictured on the right)

Here's what should happen:

Now we bend the allowances to the side of the belt and tuck the allowances of the inner belt so as to slightly close the seam of attaching the belt to the trousers with the inner belt. It is advisable to overturn this seam by 2 mm, then you will get a neat inner part of the belt.

We take note. We make sure that the inner belt lies flat, does not overtighten anywhere. It is best to first hem it on the front of the trousers, and then on the back.

Now the important point. We sew from the front side into the seam of attaching the belt to the trousers. Thus, we will sew the inner belt to the outer one, and all the allowances will remain inside, and there will be a beautiful inner processing of the trousers.

It is only very important to accurately hit this seam. To do this, we move apart (as if pulling) the belt and the trousers themselves in different directions. Then we will iron the belt and this line will not be visible if you do everything carefully.

This is how the belt should look like.

Here is the inside view:

But there are not enough loops on the belt where we can put the belt.

Now it's time to make a loop and sew a button on the trousers.

To do this, we use a special foot for loops. We insert our button into the foot, put the foot in the machine. Do not forget to lower the special thing down so that it stops the machine and directs it in the opposite direction.

The machine has a special buttonhole mode, as in the photo below.

And of course, do not make a loop immediately on the trousers, but first practice several times on the same fabric with which you sew the trousers. Since the loop may need to be adjusted.

Made a loop on the trousers.

And sew on a button.

These are such wonderful trousers.

P.S. Although I built them for myself, I wanted them to be with an underestimated seam (I lowered the seat line 5 cm from the natural one), but this turned out to be a bit too much in the finished product. Perhaps it depends on the quality and density of the fabric. In any case, you can adjust this moment if necessary (hem the excess from the inside).

See also a video on how to sew new trousers without a pattern, based on your favorite old pants:

I hope you liked the article and if you sewed trousers - they will bring you many joyful moments!! Sew with me!

Pattern of women's trousers Step by step construction

Pattern-basis of women's trousers. Step-by-step construction of a pattern drawing

The styles of trousers can be very diverse: classic and sporty; voluminous in the hips and more adjacent; expanded to the bottom and narrowed; with cuffs and without cuffs; with different types of pockets and without them; length, which varies from the knees to the level of the foot; with slits in the side seams and without slits; with various finishes: braid, lace, lacing and other decorative elements. Pants are made with or without lining. A wide variety of fabrics are used for sewing trousers: from guipure to drape.

The starting point for all this abundance is construction of the main drawing of trousers. And already on its basis, all styles that you can imagine are constructed.

And here's something else I would like to remind you: If you think that it is difficult, you will see that you were right. If you think that it's easy, you will again be convinced that you are right. So before you think - think!

I wish you courage and self-confidence.

Let's take the first step.

To build a drawing of the base of the trousers, the following measurements and increases are required (the figures given correspond to size 48):

Waist circumference (St) = 38 cm,

Semicircumference of the hips (Sat) = 52 cm,

Pants length to the knee (Dk) = 56 cm;

Pants length on the side (db) = 100 cm;

Pants width at the bottom (Wn) = 24 cm;

Allowances for loose fitting at the waist (Pt) and hips (Pb) are selected depending on the degree of fit of the trousers: Pt - from 0 to 1.5 cm, Pb - from 0.5 to 4 cm. For our construction, we will take the minimum allowance for the waist , i.e. zero, and on the hips - 1 cm.

We need three more control measurements: knee circumference, ankle circumference and thigh circumference.

Construction of a drawing of the front half of the trousers.

We begin the construction of the drawing by drawing two mutually perpendicular lines.

The point of intersection is designated T1.

Seat height.

There are two options for determining the height of the seat: by taking measurements and by calculation. In our example, we use the second option, i.e. determine this value by the formula T1Ya1 \u003d 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) + 1 cm. Substitute the values, we get \u003d 0.5 x (52 + 1) + 1 \u003d 27,5 cm.

Set aside 27.5 cm from the point T1 down the vertical and put the point R1. From point R1, left and right, draw a horizontal line.

Set aside 9.1 cm from point R1 upwards vertically and put point B1. Draw a horizontal line through point B1 to the left and right.

Hip width.

Formula, values, result. We move on.

B1B2 \u003d 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 \u003d 0.5 x (52 + 1) - 1 \u003d 26.5 - 1 \u003d 25.5 cm.

Set aside 25.5 cm from point B1 to the right horizontally and put point B2. Through point B2, draw a vertical up and down, mark the intersection points as T2 and R2.

Step width.

R2R3 \u003d 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) Carefully substitute the values \u003d 0.1 x (52 + 1) \u003d 5.3 cm (see figure below).

Set aside 5.3 cm from the point R2 to the right horizontally and put the point R3.

The position of the fold line.

Divide the segment Y1Y3 in half and put a point Y.

Draw a vertical line through the point I up and down, mark the points of intersection with the auxiliary lines as T and B.

Knee lines.

The distance TK is equal to the taken measure Dk = 56 cm.

From point T down along the fold line, set aside 56 cm and put point K. Through point K, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.

Length trousers.

From point T down along the fold line, set aside 100 cm and put point H. Through point H, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.

Pants width at the knee.

KK1 \u003d KK2 \u003d HH1 \u003d 11 cm.

It should be noted that the width of the trousers along the knee line may be greater or less than the width of the trousers along the bottom line, or be the same, but should not be less than the measurement of the circumference of the knee (Ok) plus an increase of 2 cm for a loose fit. We take the width of the trousers along the knee line to be equal to the width of the trousers along the bottom line. From point K to the left and right horizontally, set aside 11 cm and put points: on the left - K1, on the right - K2. The width of the trousers along the bottom line.

HH1 \u003d HH2 \u003d 0.5 x (Shn - 2) \u003d 0.5 x (24 - 2) \u003d 11 cm. Set aside 11 cm from point H to the left and right and put points: on the left - H1, on the right - H2.

The width of the trousers at the bottom should not be less than the measurement of the ankle girth.

Auxiliary points for the design of the step cut line.

The point R21 is obtained by dividing the segment R2R3 in half.

Connect points R21 and K2 with a straight line, divide this segment in half and connect the dividing point with a smooth concave line with point R3.

Draw a step cut line below the division point through points K2 and H2, connecting them with a straight line.

Decoration of the "bow" line (line of the middle cut of the front half).

T2T0 = 0 to 1 cm;

The distance T2T0 is taken equal to zero for figures with a convex belly, and also when trousers are supposed to be sewn from a fabric with a checkered pattern and stripes, although the latter condition is not necessary.

In our example, the distance T2T0 is 1 cm.

Set aside 1 cm from the point T2 to the left horizontally and put the point T0. Connect points T0 and B2 with a straight line. Connect points B2 and R3 with an auxiliary straight line, divide the segment in half and put point D. Connect point D with a straight line to point R2. Divide the segment DYA2 in half, mark the division point as D1. Line the "bow" through the points T0, B2, D1, R3 with a smooth line.

Waist width.

T0T4 \u003d 0.5 x (St + Fri) + two darts. The width of each tuck is 2 cm. We take the minimum allowance along the waistline, i.e. equal to zero. We substitute the values \u200b\u200bin the formula \u003d 0.5x (38 + 0) + 2x2 \u003d 23 cm.

Set aside 23 cm from the point T0 to the left horizontally and put the point T4.

The position of the darts on the waistline.

The first tuck is located along the fold line, set aside 1 cm from the T point to the left and right. The length of the tuck is 8-10 cm. Draw the sides of the tuck in straight lines;

The second tuck is located in the middle of the segment from point T4 to the solution of the 1st tuck. From the division point, lower the perpendicular 8-10 cm long - this is the center line of the tuck, set aside 1 cm to the left and right from it and draw the sides of the tuck.

Side cut line.

Connect the points R1 and K1 with an auxiliary straight line, divide it in half, and from the division point to the right along the perpendicular, set a deflection of 0.5-0.7 cm. Draw a side cut line through the points T4, B1, R1, the deflection point, K1, H1.

Bottom line.

The bottom line of the front half is drawn with a straight line H1H2.

The construction of the drawing of the front half of the trousers is completed.

Building a drawing the back of the pants.

Bottom line width.

H1H3 = H2H4 = 2cm.

Set aside 2 cm from points H1 and H2 to the left and right and put points H3 on the left and H4 on the right, respectively.

The bottom line of the back half: from point H, lay down 0.5 cm vertically and put point H5. Draw the bottom line with straight lines, connecting the points H3, H5, H4.

Width at the knee line.

K1K3 \u003d K2K4 \u003d 2 cm. Set aside 2 cm to the left and right from points K1 and K2 and put points K3 and K4, respectively. Connect points K3 and K4 with straight lines to points H3 and H4.

Step Width(See picture below) . R2R5 \u003d 0.2 x (Sb + Pb) + 1. Substitute the values \u200b\u200bin the formula \u003d 0.2 x (52 + 1) + 1 \u003d 11.6 cm. Set aside 11.6 cm from the point R2 to the right horizontally and put the point R5.

Stepping line.

Points H5 and K4, connect with a straight line. Divide the Y5K4 segment in half, set aside 0.5-0.7 cm at the division point along the perpendicular to the left - we get an auxiliary deflection point. From the point R3, drop down a perpendicular 1 cm long and put the point R31. R3 R31 \u003d 1 cm. From point R2 through point R31, draw a straight line to the right until it intersects with the auxiliary line. Designate the intersection point R51.

Draw a step cut line through points R51, a deflection point and a point K4 with a smooth concave line, and through points K4, H4 - a straight line.

Middle cut line.

The balance of trousers is the ratio of the levels of the cut tops of the front and back halves.

From point T to the right, set aside 1/3 of the length of segment TT2 and put point T21. From point T21, draw a vertical upwards, set aside 4.3 cm on it and put point T5:

T21T5 \u003d 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 \u003d 0.1 x (52 + 1) - 1 \u003d 4.3 cm.

Connect points T5 and R2 with a straight line, mark the point of intersection with the line of the hips as B3.

Line the middle cut through the points T5, B3 with a straight line, then through the points D2, R31, R51 - with a slightly concave line.

Hip width.

B3B4 \u003d (Sb + Pb) - B1B2 from the front half \u003d (52 + 1) - 25.5 \u003d 27.5 cm.

Set aside 27.5 cm from point B3 to the left horizontally and put point B4.

Waist width.

T5T7 \u003d 0.5 x (St + Fri) + 2 darts. The width of the solution of each tuck is taken 2 cm = 0.5 x (38 + 0) + 2 x 2 = 23 cm.

From point T5 to the left, make a notch on the waist line with a radius of 23 cm and put point T7. Connect points T7 and T5 with a straight line.

The position of the notches.

Divide the segment T5T7 into three equal parts, lower the perpendiculars 8-10 cm long from the division points - we get the axial lines of the tucks, from which to the left and right put aside half of the tuck solution, i.e. 1 cm each. Draw the sides of the tucks in straight lines.

Side cut line.

To ensure the smoothness of the side cut line, the distance B4K3 must be divided into three equal parts. From the division points along the perpendicular, we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm each. Moreover, at the upper division point to the left, and at the lower point to the right.

Making a side cut line.

Connect points T7 and B4 with a slightly convex line, points B4 and K3 with a convex-concave line, through auxiliary points (see figure). We connect points K3 and H4 with a straight line.

The construction of the drawing of the back half of the trousers is completed.

Cut details

You have completed the drawing of the trousers pattern.

Any style can be constructed from this base and, of course, it can be used as a pattern for sewing dress pants. By making minor changes to the design, for example, expanding at the knees or narrowing the bottom, you get a completely new model. By experimenting, you gain invaluable experience.

We will lay out detailed instructions on design and sewing technology with illustrative examples in the relevant sections.

Wish you luck!

Information taken from the site Sewing master

In this article, we will teach you how to build that basic drawing, on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of styles of women's trousers.

For example, we will use size 48. By the same principle, you can, by taking measurements from your figure, build an individual pattern of trousers.

To build a drawing, we need the following measurements:

POt = 38 cm - Semi-circumference of the waist

POb \u003d 52 cm - Semicircumference of the hips

Dbrk = 56 cm - Pants length to the knee

Dbr \u003d 100 cm - Pants length on the side

Wn = 24 cm - The width of the trousers at the bottom (set according to the style, usually in the range of 24-28 cm)

As well as control measures: knee circumference, ankle circumference and thigh circumference.

Do not forget about the increase in free fit:

Fri - increase along the waistline (with a tight fit - 0, medium fit -1, looser - 2)

Pb - increase along the line of the hips (0.5-1.5 tight, 1.5-3 - medium fit, 3-4 - free)

For our trousers, we take the following increments:

Now let's start building a basic drawing for the base of women's trousers.

Front half of pants

Building a pattern of women's trousers - step 1

Seat height and hip line

In the upper left corner we put the point T1.
Calculate the height of the seat: T1Ya1 \u003d 0.5x (Pb + Pb) + 1 cm \u003d 0.5 x (52 + 1) + 1 \u003d 27.5 cm.
From the point T1 down the vertical line, set aside the height of the seat and set the point R1.
From points T1 and R1, to the left and right, we draw horizontal lines
To calculate where the line of the hips will be, divide the T1Y1 segment into 3 parts, denote the lower division point with the letter B1. Ya1B1 \u003d (T1Ya1) / 3 \u003d 27.5 / 3 \u003d 9.1 cm.
Through point B1 we draw a horizontal line to the left and to the right.

Building a pattern of women's trousers - step 2

The next step in building the pattern is to calculate the width along the hip line. The calculation is made according to the following formula:

B1B2 \u003d 0.5 x (Pb + Pb) - 1 \u003d 0.5 x (52 + 1) - 1 \u003d 26.5 - 1 \u003d 25.5 cm.

We postpone the resulting value from point B1 to the right horizontally, put point B2. We draw a vertical line through point B2, we denote the intersection points as T2 and R2.

Building a pattern of women's trousers - step 3

From the point P2 to the right along the step line, we set aside a segment equal to 1:10 measurements of the half-circumference of the hips (PB) with an increase in free fit along the line of the hips (Pb) and set the point P3.

R2R3 \u003d (Pb + Pb): 10 \u003d (52 + 1): 10 \u003d 5.3 cm

To determine where the fold line will be, we divide the segment Y1Y3 in half and put a point Y. That is, Y1Y = Y1Y3: 2 = 15.4.

Draw a vertical line through the point I up and down, and denote the points of intersection with the auxiliary horizontal lines as T and B.

Building a pattern of women's trousers - step 4

Now we mark on our pattern knee line and trouser bottom line.

We get the knee line by setting aside the value of the measure Dbrk = 56 cm along the fold line from the point T down, put the point K here and draw a horizontal line through it to the left and right.

We obtain the bottom line by setting aside the value of the measure Dbr \u003d 100 cm along the fold line from the point T down, put the point H here and draw a horizontal line through it to the left and right.

Building a pattern of women's trousers - step 5

Define and mark on the pattern the width of the trousers along the bottom line and along the knee line.

The width of the bottom of the front half of the trousers is equal to the width of the bottom of the trousers in the finished form minus 2 cm. Segments equal to half the width of the front half are set aside along the bottom line on both sides of the H point and set the points H1 and H2.

HH1 \u003d HH2 \u003d (Shn - 2): 2 \u003d (24 - 2): 2 \u003d 11 cm.

The width of the trousers along the knee line is equal to the width of the trousers along the bottom line or 2-4 cm less (in style). We set aside half of this value on the knee line from point K in both directions, put points K1 and K2.

In our case, we assume that KK1 \u003d KK2 \u003d HH1 \u003d 11 cm.

Building a pattern of women's trousers - step 6

We make out the step cut line on our pattern.

To do this, we use the auxiliary point R21, which we put in the middle of the segment R2R3.

We connect points K2 and H2 with a straight line.

Building a pattern of women's trousers - step 7

We make out the line of the middle cut of the front half of women's trousers.

To do this, from the point T2 to the left horizontally, lay off the segment T2T0 equal to 1 cm. The value T2T0 = 0 is also possible, it is used for figures with a convex belly, or when trousers are sewn from fabric in a cage or strip (but not necessary).

We connect points T0 and B2 with a straight line. We connect points B2 and R3 with an auxiliary straight line, divide the segment in half and put point D.

Point D is connected by a straight line with point R2.

The segment DYA2 is divided in half, and the division point is denoted by D1. We draw the “bow” line through the points T0, B2, D1, R3 with a smooth line.

The width along the waist line is 0.5 x (POt + Fri) + two tucks. The width of each tuck is 2 cm. Let's take the minimum allowance along the waistline, i.e. 0.

Thus, T0T4 \u003d 0.5x (38 + 0) + 2x2 \u003d 23 cm.

There may be one or two tucks on the waistline. In this pattern, we use the option with two tucks.

We will place the first tuck along the fold line, from the T point to the left and right we set aside 1 cm each. The length of the tuck is 8-10 cm. The sides of the tuck are straight lines.

The second tuck will be placed in the middle of the segment from point T4 to the solution of the 1st tuck. From the division point, we lower the perpendicular 8-10 cm long - this is the axial line of the tuck, from it to the left and right we set aside 1 cm and draw the sides of the tuck, as in the case of the first.

We make out the line of the side cut. We connect the points R1 and K1 with an auxiliary straight line, divide it in half, from the division point to the right along the perpendicular we set aside a deflection of 0.5-0.7 cm.

We build the line of the side cut through the points T4, B1, R1, the deflection point, K1, H1.

Building a pattern of women's trousers - step 10

Draw the bottom line of the front half of the trousers with a straight line H1H2.

The pattern of the front half of women's trousers is ready.

Back half of trousers

We make out the line of the bottom of the back half of the trousers.

From the points H1 and H2 to the left and right, set aside 2 cm each and set the points: on the left - H3 and on the right - H4. Thus, H1H3 = H2H4 = 2cm.

From the point H we set aside 0.5 cm vertically down and set the point H5. We connect the points H3, H5, H4 with straight lines. The bottom line is framed.

We make out the line of the knee. From points K1 and K2 we set aside 2 cm to the left and right and put points K3 and K4. Thus, K1K3 = K2K4 = 2 cm.

We connect points K3 and K4 with straight lines with points H3 and H4.

We make out the line of the step cut.

R2R5 \u003d 0.2 x (Pb + Pb) + 1 \u003d 0.2 x (52 + 1) + 1 \u003d 11.6 cm.

From the point R2 to the right horizontally, lay off 11.6 cm and set the point R5.

Points R5 and K4, connect with a straight line.

We divide the Y5K4 segment in half, and at the point of division along the perpendicular to the left, set aside 0.5-0.7 cm - this will be an auxiliary deflection point.

From the point R3 we draw a perpendicular 1 cm down and put the point R31. I3 I31 \u003d 1 cm.

From point R2 through point R31 we draw a straight line to the right until it intersects with the auxiliary line. Let's designate the point of intersection R51.

We draw a smooth concave line through the points R51, the deflection point and the K4 point, and a straight line through the points K4, H4. We get a step cut line.

We make out the line of the middle cut. To do this, we put an auxiliary point D2 in the middle of the segment D1R2, that is, D1D2 \u003d D1R2: 2.

From the point T to the right, set aside 1/3 of the length of the segment TT2 and set the point T21, that is, TT21 = TT2: 3.

From point T21 we draw a vertical upwards, set aside 4.3 cm on it and set point T5.

T21T5 \u003d 0.1 x (Pb + Pb) - 1 \u003d 0.1 x (52 + 1) - 1 \u003d 4.3 cm.

We connect points T5 and R2 with a straight line, we denote the point of intersection with the line of the hips B3.

We connect points T5, B3 with a straight line, points D2, R31, R51 - with a slightly concave line.

We make out the line of the hips.

B3B4 \u003d (Pb + Pb) - B1B2, where B1B2 \u003d 25.5 cm (already calculated for building the front half of the trousers). That is, B3B4 \u003d (52 + 1) - 25.5 \u003d 27.5 cm.

From point B3 to the left horizontally, set aside 27.5 cm and set point B4.

Let's make a waist line.

T5T7 \u003d 0.5 x (POt + Fri) + 2 darts. We take the width of the solution of each tuck by 2 cm.

That is, T5T7 \u003d 0.5 x (38 + 0) + 2 x 2 \u003d 23 cm.

From point T5 to the left, we make a notch on the waist line with a radius of 23 cm and set point T7. We connect points T7 and T5 with a straight line.

We make cutouts.

We divide the T5T7 segment into three equal parts, from the division points we lower perpendiculars 8-10 cm long - these will be the axial lines of the tucks, from which we set aside 1 cm to the left and right. We draw the sides of the tucks with straight lines.

We make out the line of the side cut.

To make the side cut line smooth, we divide the distance B4K3 into three equal parts.

From the points of division along the perpendicular, we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm. At the upper point of division to the left, and at the lower point - to the right.

The pattern of the back half of women's trousers is ready.

The pattern and tailoring of women's trousers is a complex process that requires serious attention and precision. The key to success is the precise implementation of instructions. Each action must be performed sequentially, not forgetting the small details. Below is a step-by-step guide to successfully creating women's trousers with the perfect fit at home.

To increase the speed of tailoring, you need to prepare in advance for this process. Tools you may need:

sewing machine with spare replaceable needles;
threads;
scissors;
crayon or washable felt-tip pen for cutting fabric;
sheets of paper (preferably graph paper) for making patterns; pencil;
meter wooden ruler;
flexible measuring tape;
pattern;
iron.

It is also necessary to prepare material for potential trousers. It is advisable to use only one type of fabric for one thing, because different types can react in their own way to washing, ironing, etc.

Before sewing, the material must be washed and dried. This is done in order to get rid of natural shedding and possible shrinkage.

IMPORTANT! In order for the fabric to be obedient, it should be “compacted”. To do this, generously rub the fabric with a simple solid soap and squeeze out the remaining liquid a little without rinsing. Next - dry and start cutting. After finishing work, wash again with a double rinse. If you follow these rules, the resulting thing will not shrink much and will have a perfect seam.

The process of creating any new thing is divided into several stages:

Development and construction of patterns.
Carrying out cutting of material and connection of component parts.
Fits.
Final tailoring.

Let's get started!

How to sew women's pants with the perfect fit

For a perfect fit of sewn trousers, it is necessary to take measurements accurately and according to all the rules, and also clearly follow the instructions for building a pattern.

It is necessary to take into account the features of the human figure, because for obese women a special style of things is suitable. A very important role is played by the quality of raw materials for the manufacture of new clothes, because the properties of the thing depend on the type of fabric. The greater the advantages of the material, the more functional and high-quality clothes will be.

Building a pattern takes up most of the whole process. The success of the final result depends on it. The pattern drawing is applied to plain paper. First, the basics of the pattern are drawn, and then the classic style of women's trousers.

ON A NOTE! The pattern pattern is conveniently applied to a cellophane sheet, which can be purchased at a hardware store. It is very convenient and practical, because the service life of this material is high!

We take measurements for the cut of women's trousers

It is advisable to take the correct measurements in underwear using a centimeter flexible tape. This will eliminate measurement errors as much as possible, which is necessary for a better result. Hold the tape with the numbers facing out.

During this process, you need to stand straight, trying not to hunch your back.

ON A NOTE! Before performing measuring work, for greater accuracy, a small rope can be tied to the waist. With this technique, the measurement lines will be clearly visible.

How to take measurements correctly

When taking measurements, wrap around the desired circle should not be tight, while not wide. A snug fit of the tape to the body with the possibility of its sliding is required.

For tailoring women's trousers, you need to measure the following quantities:

Semicircle of the waist and hips. The waist is measured at the narrowest point (it is located above the navel). Hips - on the widest in the buttocks. The result obtained by both measures is divided by two.

ON A NOTE! To accept all the features of the figure, you can define a segment in the "breeches" area. This is the maximum length of the bulge on the hips. If it is larger than that calculated on the buttocks, this result should be taken to calculate the pattern.

Knee length. This is the distance from the waist to the knee of the model. The measurement is taken from the front.
Side length. The distance from the waist to the bottom end of the leg. Measured from the side, the measuring tape fits snugly around the waist and hip.
bottom width. The desired width of the trousers is taken into account based on the style of the product.
Half knee. Measured parallel to the floor; measure is divided in half.
Hip girth. This is the largest upper part of the leg, which is located below the groin.
Leg circumference. The maximum width of the calf muscle, which is below the knee, is measured horizontally.
Ankle circumference. Horizontal dimension.
Seat height. This measurement is taken while sitting. The distance from the waist to the seat surface is taken into account. A vertical measurement that is taken perpendicular to the floor.

The main designations of measurements on the pattern

A pattern drawing is a scheme, following which any fashionable thing can be made from a piece of ordinary fabric. In this figure, the main designations of measurements and their sizes are clearly and concisely applied.

For tailoring trousers, the following abbreviations are used:

St - Semicircumference of the waist.
Sat - Semicircumference of the hips.
Dbk - The length of the trousers to the knee.
dB - Side length.
Shn - The lower width of the trousers.
SK - Half circumference of the knee.
Sun - Seat height.
Fri - An increase in the waist (for free relief).
Pb - The increase in the hips of Fri and Pb depends on the individual characteristics of the human body and on the style of the trousers. On the average figure is allowed: Pb = 1 cm; Pb=0.

How to build the basis of a women's trousers pattern step by step

The basis of the women's trouser pattern is two correctly drawn figures. For their accurate calculation, all measurements taken are transferred to a sheet of paper. Stages of building a drawing:

We measure the length on paper based on the scale of the picture.
We make designations in width for greater convenience.
We indicate additional designations that are needed for the correct creation of trousers.

For example, we use the calculations indicated in centimeters:

Hips=108

Waist=82

Development of the front half of the base for women's trousers

Calculate the width of the front half of the trousers using the formula:

Shppb=1/4*Hip circumference-1 centimeter=1/4*108-1=26

Width of the back half of the trousers:

Shzpb \u003d 1/4 * Hip circumference + Pb + Fri \u003d 27

¼ Shzpb \u003d 6.75

For the correct construction of the pattern, it is required to draw two perpendicular lines, where O is the point of their intersection. From it you need to postpone the segment OA \u003d Shppb \u003d 26.
From the same point we draw a vertical segment OB=Vs=27.6; perpendicular Shppb. In the same place, we measure OK \u003d Dbk \u003d 59 and OH1 \u003d Db \u003d 103.
From point B upwards we measure BB1=1/10*Sb+3=8.4
We draw horizontal perpendicular lines from points B, B1, K, H1.
From point A, lower the line down to the line coming out of B. We got the intersection points B2, C.
Segment B2B3 \u003d 1/10 * Sat + 1 \u003d 6.4
B1B3 must be divided into two equal parts, from which the point B4 is obtained.
The dividing line of the pants arrow is drawn through this point. A2, B1 are formed.
From point B1 in both directions along the line, you need to measure the segments: H1H3 \u003d H1H2 \u003d 1 / 4Shn-1 \u003d 5.
Draw segments B1H2, B3H3. From this, points B0, C1, K2, K3 are obtained.
Measure 0.5 from B2.
Measure point С1=С2 up vertically in a straight line. Draw line segment C1C2.
A1A3 is approximately equal to 1. Draw a rounded line from A1 to C1C2. Connect A3 and C1 using the pattern.

The front base is ready.

Development of the back half of the base of women's trousers

After drawing the front of the trousers, the back is drawn.

From B4 you need to measure 1 cm. The result is a segment B4B5 = 1 (this is necessary to remove the arrow of the back half of the trousers). Draw B5K1 with a thin line.
From B5, draw B6 to the right, where B5B6 \u003d 1/4 * Wzpb \u003d 6.75.
From B0 set aside 4 cm up the picture.

ON A NOTE! On trousers for figures with lush buttocks, this coefficient will be 3; with a body structure with flat buttocks - 5.

Cross G and B6. From B6 draw a perpendicular to GV6 up and down.
Make a segment G1G2 \u003d Wzpb \u003d 27.
Draw the segment G1G2 parallel to V6G so that G2 is on segments H.

ON A NOTE! When developing and drawing patterns, it is convenient to use a measuring triangle.

Create point Г3, where В5Г2 = В5Г3.
Draw a point K4 and K5, setting aside 2 cm from the line of the side and step seams. Form a segment K5G3.
Draw a line from K4 through G2 to the waist - point T has come out.
Draw T1, where K1T1 = K1T, while T1 must lie on the straight line of point B6.
Connect segment TT1. Measure 0.5 from T1 and get the segment T2B6.

This part is also done. It remains only to transfer them to the fabric and cut them out.

Pattern of classic women's trousers

To build a pattern of classic women's trousers, you need to calculate the darts of the back and front halves and correctly draw up the lines of the middle seam for further work with the material.

Front half tuck.

Measure A3A4 \u003d 1/4 * Waist circumference + 2 (for tuck) + 0.5 (for fit) \u003d 23.
Raise A4 by 0.5 and connect the resulting curved segment with a pattern.
Divide the length between A2 and 0.5 equally, draw a perpendicular to the line of points B.
Make a tuck line, 10 deep and 0.5 wide.

Back half tuck.

T2T3 \u003d 1/4 * Waist girth + 3 (tuck in the back half) + 0.5 (for a good fit) \u003d 24.
dB = 103, as on the front.
T2T3 is divided equally. The tuck will be 13 cm long and 2 - 3 cm wide. It is drawn perpendicular to the waist.
K5G4 \u003d C1C3-0.5
Using the pattern, connect V6G4. This will be the middle seam line.

How to sew women's trousers with your own hands: step by step instructions for beginners

For tailoring trousers with minimal material costs, you need:

According to the calculated patterns, cut the fabric.
Sharpen all details of the drawing.
Carry out the adjustment of the material.
Carry out the final assembly of components.

Let's take a closer look at all of the above steps.

Making fabric cuts

For convenience, the formed patterns must be cut with scissors from sheets of paper, using chalk or a washable felt-tip pen. On the fabric, all the details are distributed starting from the largest, ending with the smallest.

We grind the details

After the distribution of the components, you need to mark all the side control points of the drawing for the correct drawing of the lines of the drawing. The width of the lines should be one or two millimeters.

It is necessary to take into account seam allowances, which depend on the quality of the material.

IMPORTANT! If the threads fall out abundantly from the cut edge, then there is more retreat (about 3-4 cm).

After rechecking each size separately, you need to cut out all the components.

We carry out the adjustment

In order to ensure that the trousers are the correct size, the front and back pieces are secured with sewing pins and compared to the model's proportions. At this stage, errors are corrected, if any error was made, the convenience of landing is taken into account.

Only after making sure that the measurements are correct, the parts are assembled and the product is sewn.

Final assembly of parts

Instructions for the correct tailoring of trousers:

Sew darts.
If there are pockets, they need to be stitched (connected on one side).
Sew and overcast side seams.
Sew the inner cuts.
Sew the seam of the seat.
Overcast the existing fastener.
Stitch the belt and ribbon.
Tuck the trouser leg allowances and process.
If there are buttons, sew on.

Now you can wear custom made trousers.

To keep things running smoothly, consider the following tips:

for tailoring classic women's trousers, you need to choose a dense, high-quality fabric that can tolerate systematic ironing (for example, cashmere or cloth);
always use decating before work (washing and drying the material);
when connecting the component parts, it is advisable to use an iron to smooth the seams;
after finishing work with the sewing machine, you need to iron the trousers again, not forgetting the front arrow.

If you follow all the instructions completely, you will get great classic women's trousers with a perfect fit! Good luck with your work!

Good day, dear readers of the blog "site". Today we will build pattern the basis of women's trousers. This is not an easy topic, so it's best to master it after you've figured out skirts and dresses. But if you already have experience in building patterns, then I hope you will succeed and you will understand everything if you read the article to the end, of course)).

So, I take my measurements as a basis (), according to them I will build a pattern drawing. You replace my values with your own, adjust the values that differ, taking into account the features of your figure (I mark them with an asterisk * and explain in footnotes). And you should be able to that will fit you perfectly.

Initial data (in centimeters):

Additions:

For a drawing, it’s better to take a graph paper, especially for building a pattern of trousers, replace my measurements with your own, and you will succeed)).

TN down - bottom line level = Dbr = 105 cm
TB down - level of the hip line = Dlb = 20.5 cm
TY down - seat line level = there are two options for building.

First option:

TU down \u003d Sun - (from 0.5 * to 1.5 *) \u003d 28.5 - 0.5 \u003d 28 cm

*0.5 - non-stretchy fabrics and not a snug fit
*1.5 - stretchy fabrics and snug fit

Second option:

TU down \u003d 1/2 Sat + (-) (from 0 to 1.5) \u003d 55/2 + 1 \u003d 28.5 cm

"+" for classic and loose trousers
"-" for tight trousers
"0" - for flat buttocks
"1" - standard
"1.5" - for convex buttocks

4. TK down - knee line level = Vdk = 60.5 cm

For cropped trousers (to the ankle), this level is found by the formula: BC down = BN / 2 - 4 (5) *

*4 - with growth up to 175 cm
*5 - with height over 175 cm

Construction of the front half of the trousers (PPB)

one . BB1 to the right - width along the hip line = 1/2 (Sb + Pb) = (55 + 1) / 2 = 28

2. RJ1 to the right - width along the seat line = BB1 = 28. We draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line through points B1 and R1, we get point T1

3. Я1Я2 to the right - step width \u003d 1/10Sb \u003d 55/10 \u003d 5.5

4. We make out the middle seam (bow line) using auxiliary points

T1B1/3
B1B2 right 0.5 cm
The bisector from the point R1 = from 2.5 to 3.5 cm (we take the value 3) - the larger the step width, the larger the bisector.

5. ЯЯ2/2 - the position of the line of the arrow - to draw a vertical line through all levels.

6. T1T2 to the left - width along the waist line = 1/2 (St + Fri) + tuck (0-2.5) * + transfer of the side seam in the upper part (1 cm) = (42 + 0.5) / 2 + 2 + 1 = 24.3

* tuck for standard figures - 2 cm

7. T2T21 up - auxiliary point for hip bending = 1 cm (for a standard figure). We connect point T21 with a straight line with point B.

8. K0K1 left \u003d K0K2 right - width along the knee line \u003d (Shk - 1.5) / 2 \u003d (26 - 1.5) / 2 \u003d 12.3

9. H0H1 left \u003d H0H1 right - width along the bottom line \u003d (Shv - 1.5) / 2 \u003d (26 - 1.5) / 2 \u003d 12.3. It is necessary to subtract 1.5 cm - to translate the side seam so that it looks in the middle of the torso.

We connect the point K1 with the point I, we connect the point K2 with the point I2 with straight lines.

10. Construction of a steel tuck.

From the point T0 to the right and to the left, set aside half of the tuck solution = 2/2 = 1

Dart length: 8-10 cm *

* 8 cm - the tummy is small
*9 cm - standard
*10 - flat tummy

Note: for any modeling (meaning changing this model, adding other elements to the pattern), the tuck is built up to the hip line.

11. We make out the waist line: we connect point T21 with the left side of the waist tuck (if necessary, we make a line under the pattern so that there is a smooth transition).

12. We make a step cut: divide Y2K2 by 2 and at the separation point we make a deflection of 0.8 cm under the pattern to the left inside the drawing.

13. We make out the side cut: it is allowed to retreat 1 cm to the right from the point I. We divide YK1 into 3 parts and draw deflections to the point T21 with a smooth line.

Construction of the back half of the trousers (ZPB)

We rearrange the first three points from building the front half of the trousers.

BB1 to the right - width along the hip line = 1/2 (Sb + Pb) = (55 + 1) / 2 = 28
YaYa1 to the right - the width along the seat line \u003d BB1 \u003d 28. We draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line through points B1 and Ya1, we get point T1
Ya1Y2 to the right - step width \u003d 1/10Sb \u003d 55/10 \u003d 5.5

2. RJ2 divided by 2 - we get the position of the arrow line.

3. We make out the middle cut using auxiliary points:

Т1Т3 to the left = Т1Т0/2 + 1 (or 2)*

*1 - flat buttocks or stooped figures
*2 - bulging buttocks or curved figures

Т3Т4 up = 2(3) cm * — balance value

*2 - flat buttocks (standard)
*3 - convex

R1R3 left \u003d 1/24 Sat \u003d 55/24 \u003d 2.3

We connect point T4 with point R3 with a straight line. Point B3 appears at the intersection with the level of the hips.

4. Я3Я4 to the right - step width \u003d 1/5 Sat \u003d 55/5 \u003d 11

5. B3B4 to the left - the width along the hip line: we find by the formula: 1/2 (Sb + Pb) \u003d (55 + 1) / 2 \u003d 28

6. Т4Т5 to the left - the width along the waist line: we calculate according to the formula: 1/2 (St + Fri) + tuck (2.5 cm for flat buttocks; 3 cm - for convex buttocks) - (minus) translation of the side seam in the upper part . Depends on the shape of the side and should be the same for PPB (front half of the trousers) and ZPB (back half of the trousers) = (42 + 0.5) / 2 + 2.5 (less protruding buttocks) - 1 = 22.8

7. We make out the side line in the upper part using two radii:

R1 = B4T5 = BT21 = measurement from drawing PPB = 22
R2 = T4T5 = 22.8

Point T5 appears at the intersection of two arcs; we connect the point T5 with T4 and with B4 with straight lines.

8. T4T5 / 2 is the position of the center line of the steel tuck. We build a tuck perpendicular to the waist line with a length of 12 - 14 cm (12 - convex buttocks, 14 - flat buttocks).

From point B to the right and left we set aside 1/2 of the tuck solution \u003d 2.5 / 2 \u003d 1.3

9. Width along the knee line: K0K3 left \u003d K0K3 right \u003d (Shk + 1.5) / 2 \u003d (26 + 1.5) / 2 \u003d 13.8

10. H0H3 left \u003d H0H4 right - this is the width along the bottom line \u003d (Shn +1.5) / 2 \u003d 13.8

We connect the points K3 and H3, and K4 and H4 with straight lines.

11. We make a step cut: we connect the points R4 with K4 with a straight line, divide the line into 2 and at the dividing point bend the line to the left inward by 1-1.5 cm under the pattern.

12. Equalize step cuts K2Y2 = K4Y41

13. Bisector from the point R3 \u003d 3 cm (constant value)

We complete the design of the midline from point B3, through the bisector from point R3 to point R41

14. We make a side cut: B4Y5 down the vertical to the graying line, connect the point Y5 with the point K3, draw a line under the pattern (Y5 K3 / 3 and perform deflections, see the drawing)

15. We perform pairing of step slices.

To do this, we take a tracing paper, first we circle the middle line of the PPB, then we dock it in the way that the PPB and ZPB will be sewn along the crotch seam, and we circle the middle line of the ZPB. The middle seam should have a rounded shape, without depressions and sharp corners, so we smooth out all the roughness and draw a perfect smooth rounded line. Then the middle seam on the fabric will then look perfect.
We transfer all changes from tracing paper to the drawing. (in the picture above, the old line of the middle seam is crossed out, and the new one is circled in red, the change is small, but it happens differently, see the picture below)