Fastening of hooks and loops in clothes. Sewing on metal hooks and loops

Hooks and eyes are always used there. where it is required to fasten the fastener firmly, but not noticeably from the front side of the product. The fastener is made on a double-folded and reinforced with a lining of non-woven material.

Hooks and loops come in a variety of sizes, black and nickel-plated (silver-colored). Most crochet hooks come in two flavors: a straight, flat buttonhole for an overlap and a round buttonhole for butt ends.

FLOATED EDGES

The hook is sewn to the wrong side of the top edge of the clasp, and a flat buttonhole is sewn to the right side of the bottom edge of the clasp. Hooks and loops are sewn with frequent overcast or buttonhole stitches, while sewing on the hook, do not bring the needle out to the front side (1).

Extra strong hooks and loops of various widths are available for fastening the belts of skirts or trousers (2).

SEALED ON EDGES

Hooks and loops are sewn to the wrong side of the garment, while the end of the hook is almost at the very edge of the fastener, and the loop protrudes slightly beyond the edge. Needle punctures should not be visible on the right side of the fabric (3).

Buttons

Sew-on buttons come in various sizes, from metal - black and nickel-plated (silver color) or from plastic. On the fastened edges of the fastener, such buttons are not visible from the outside. The clasp on the buttons is also made on a double folded and reinforced with a lining of non-woven material. The upper part of the button (with a pin) is sewn from the wrong side of the upper edge of the fastener, the lower part of the button (with a cup) - from the front side of the lower edge of the fastener.

HOW TO SEW THE BUTTON

On the wrong side of the top edge of the fastener, mark the sewing position of the button. Sew on the top of the button with overlock stitches. Then mark the sewing area of ​​the lower part of the button. To do this, rub the shank of the upper part of the button with chalk and press it on the lower edge of the fastener. If the chalk dot on the fabric is not visible, then pierce the stem with a pin and drive it into the bottom edge of the fastener (5). Mark the puncture point with a pin.

For those who want to have a spectacular fastener, but do not want to overcast loops and sew on buttons, there are push-through buttons in various colors and sizes, in the form of ready-made kits, which are sold in haberdashery stores.

These buttons can be punched with a hammer (6) or even faster and easier with special pliers (7). Exact instructions are included with each kit.

IMPORTANT: the fastening points of the buttons should be marked on both edges of the fastener. Each push-through button always consists of two upper and two lower parts. When punching parts of the button, make sure that the cap of the top of the button is on the front side of the top edge of the fastener, and the pin is on the wrong side of the top edge of the fastener, the plate of the bottom of the button is on the wrong side of the bottom edge of the fastener, and the cup is on the front side of the bottom edge of the fastener. ...

Fastening tape

There are three types of this tape: for butt closure - tape with hooks and loops, for overlap - tape with buttons and Velcro contact tape.

TAPE WITH HOOKS AND LOOPS (8) consists of two parts, sewn under the edges of the fastener from the wrong side of the garment, while the hooks must be closed with the edge of the fabric. The buttonholes may protrude slightly over the edge and should match exactly with the crochet hooks.

TAPE WITH BUTTONS (9) consists of two parts: one with the upper parts of the buttons, the other with the lower parts. The tape with the upper parts of the buttons is sewn on the seamy side of the upper edge of the fastener, the tape with the lower parts of the buttons is sewn on the front side of the lower edge of the fastener. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the parts of the button coincide.

The VELCRO CONTACT TAPE (10) also consists of two parts: one part of the tape has a grippy surface and is sewn onto the front side of the bottom edge of the fastener. The other part of the tape has a fleecy surface and is sewn to the wrong side of the top edge of the fastener.

Before sewing knitted fabrics, they need to be properly prepared for this. So that the finished product has a beautiful presentable look and fits well on the figure, you only need to sew knitted parts in the correct sequence and with a suitable knitted stitch.To do this, you need to follow some rules that will be discussed in this article.

The main secrets for connecting parts:

1. To connect the parts, it is better to use the threads from which the knitted fabric is connected. The exception is non-spun threads, decorated, in the form of a cord. In this case, sew the parts together with flat, strong thread of a similar color. Make sure the thread is strong and does not fade when washed.
2. It is possible to competently assemble a product from parts only by observing a strict sequence of all operations. First of all, iron the finished parts and let them dry. Then sweep them up and measure the garment to make sure it fits well.
3. It is better to carry out the seams in the following sequence: shoulder, side and seams on the sleeves. Sew the sleeves into the armholes last. Finishing of the product completes the work.
4. Do not use thread that is too long when sewing. It should not be more than 45 cm. Constant friction of the thread against the canvas can cause the thread to break.
5. Try to pull the thread evenly when sewing. Make sure that the seam forms a neat, straight line. If the seam is horizontal, be guided by the loops of one row; if the seam is vertical, by the vertical row of one loop. To help you see the seam line more clearly, thread the contrasting basting thread into the desired stitches or rows.
6. If the two flies that you are stitching are slightly different in length, you can eliminate this defect by lightly fitting into the seam. The difference in length should not exceed 1.5 cm. Otherwise, one of the parts will have to be redone.
7. Details such as a golf collar or cuffs with a turn-up are sewn in a special way. Half of the seam (before the fold of the part) is made on the front side, the rest on the wrong side. As a result, the edges of the seam will be inside the part and will not be visible.
8. If you still have a long end from the typesetting edge, you can use this thread. To make a neat joint along the bottom edge, use the suggested technique.

Closed-loop jersey seam

Sewing parts with a knitted seam will make it almost invisible in the product. The parts to be sewn are laid out on a flat surface, if necessary, they can be ironed out. The needle is inserted behind the loop located above the closed loops on the upper canvas (Figure 1). In the same way, the needle is inserted into the loop of the lower row of the canvas. After a few centimeters, the thread is tightened (Figure 2).

Knit seam with open loops

The dropped loop is picked up with a needle, then the next loop is grasped and the thread is pulled, after which the loop is thrown off the knitting needle (Figure 3). On the lower part of the strap, a dropped loop is hooked up with a needle, and then, introducing the needle from the bottom up, grab the next loop and pull the thread (Figure 4).

The connection of the lobe and transverse canvases

This seam can be used to sew certain parts of the product: back and sleeve, sleeve and front shelves.

First, the needle picks up the loop below the closed ones and pulls the thread (Fig. 5). After that, a needle is inserted, the broach is picked up between the edge and the next loop and the thread is pulled. This sequence is repeated in turn. After a few centimeters, the thread is tightened (Figure 6).

Vertical seam for the front surface

The parts to be sewn are placed on a flat surface, if necessary, they are ironed out. The needle is picked up by a broach between the edge and the first loop and the thread is pulled (Fig. 7). On the other half of the product, the needle picks up the broach between the opposite edge and the next loop and pulls the thread. These steps are alternately repeated on each of the halves to be sewn. After a few centimeters, the thread is tightened (Figure 8).

Vertical seam for seamy surface

The seam for the seamy surface is made according to the same principle as the seam for the front. The needle is inserted into the broach between the hem and the next loop and the thread is pulled (Fig. 9). Then the needle is inserted into the broach between the opposite edge and the next loop and the thread is pulled. After 3 cm, slightly tighten (Fig. 10).

This stitch is popular with many knitters. It is quite simple to perform, does not constrict the product and is practically invisible. The seam must necessarily go below the row of closed loops, as otherwise closed loops will be visible on the front side. A needle with a thread is inserted between the loops without damaging them. The stitch is led backward, the working thread is drawn along the seamy side, it is brought out in front of the previous stitch at an equal distance with it. When making a seam "line", it is imperative to turn the product over from time to time and check how the seam looks from the front side (Fig. 11).

Tambour seam

In appearance, the chain stitch resembles a chain consisting of air loops (Fig. 12). It is often used when embroidering on knitwear, when processing the neck, armholes and bottom of the product.

When performing a chain stitch, the thread is fixed on the seamy side of the fabric. The needle is brought out to the front side, it is inserted into the hole from where the thread comes out, after having thrown the main thread from right to left so that a large loop is formed. Then pull the needle out, holding the thread with your left hand, and tighten the loop. For the next stitch, the needle is inserted into the previous one. Each link, as it were, comes out of the other.

A prerequisite for making a chain stitch is an exact match of the stitches to each other in size. Sewing a chain stitch on the neck of the garment will help make it smoother and more neat.

Stitching stitch

Experienced knitters use a crochet stitch for sewing on certain details: beads, pockets, planks. In addition, horizontal cuts on the canvas are processed with this seam or the loops of the last row are fixed.

Before you stick parts of the product, they are well ironed. This makes it easier to work, and the seam is smooth and neat. The edge of the piece that you are going to sew on with a crochet stitch should end with three or four front rows. Open loops are also carefully ironed out.

In order to make a stitching stitch, the needle is inserted from the inside into the second loop, then into the first loop from above, and then pulled from the bottom up through the third loop. After that, the needle is inserted from top to bottom again into the second loop and pulled through the fourth from the bottom to the top (Fig. 14).

A neckline or inlay sewn with a stitching stitch retains its shape and beautiful appearance for a long time (Fig. 15).

For open elastic loops, a special seam is suitable.

The auxiliary thread should be used to knit two extra rows. Parts must be steamed with damp gauze.

After that, the rows from the auxiliary thread are removed.

The prepared parts are located on a horizontal plane. The needle is inserted into the first 2 loops of the lower part.

Having pulled up the thread, the needle should be inserted into the 2 corresponding loops of the upper part, while continuing to tighten the thread.

After sewing one side of the elastic, close the loops on the other side. Then, after aligning both sides of the elastic, you need to insert the needle into 2 adjacent loops of the lower part. By inserting the needle into the 2 corresponding loops of the upper part, you should tighten the thread.

The front part of the button is installed together with the hook
punching a hole.
Further, if there is a need (and this is most often), slightly expand the cylindrical part of the button with a hammer and dowel (punch or bit).
And we directly install the hook with the available attachment.

It may well happen that the cylindrical part of the button did not flare to the end and some notches and irregularities remained.
Correct this error with a flat screwdriver
We put a screwdriver inside the hook and additionally push it with a nozzle. If you don't have a screwdriver on hand, place a coin. The flaring area is larger and, as a result, the strength of the installed part increases.
Then we move on to installing the bottom part We install using the same attachment with which the hook itself was installed. As a bottom stand, we use a nozzle for installing any button

If you do not have enough parts to install the hook kit, you can use parts from the button No. 61 (circular)
If the cylindrical part of the part turns out to be longer than necessary, then it should be shortened. See above - how to hide the button.
In case of poor-quality flaring, it is enough to place a screwdriver blade and push it again.

Turkish hooks are installed in the same way.
Most often, you have to deal with repairs: i.e. installing one of the hook parts. Orders for new products are rare. Many customers simply do not know that instead of a button on the belt (trousers, skirts), you can install a hook.

The hook on the trousers holds more load than the button. Try to convince customers of this and replace the button with a hook.

How to sew on hooks beautifully and correctly? Where and when is it needed? Let's consider some points:
- in finished products: skirt, coat, trousers;
- in underwear -

In finished products: wedding dress, skirt, coat, trousers.

Hooks and loops are used in products if:
- an imitation of the fastener on the dress is required. I explain - decorative buttons are sewn for beauty, and under them there is a hook and loop fastener
- when it is difficult to match the buttons to the color of the product;
- when the fabric of the product is very thick: woolen cloth, denim;
- in men's trousers;
- when your machine does not perform the "loop" function;
- or in addition to a fastener to reinforce a certain place on the product. To be clear, the woman has large breasts and wears tight-fitting blouses. As a rule, the clasp diverges at the chest line. This is where you need a hook and loop.

What are the types of hooks and loops?

Various sizes and shapes; from metal and plastic; covered decorative; for linen and outerwear, also hand-made buttonholes,

With hooks it is easier, they are mostly not visible on the front side. But the hinges do not always fit ready-made. Then we make it by hand. How to do it? We count the width of the loop and the number of loops, multiply this figure by 4, we get the required length for making the cord for the loop. The length can be longer, it is not difficult to cut off the excess. If only one loop is needed, take 10cm for the calculation. Watch the video tutorial below.

How to sew on hooks and loops in lingerie?

If you are sewing bras and panties for yourself, then you collided. It is often not possible to choose a ready-made bra fastener by color, length and number of rows of loops. It is very easy to do it yourself, get a FREE master class on making a pattern for a fastener and sewing sequence for a fastener
It will not be difficult for you to lengthen and calculate a pattern of any width and any number of loops. It is necessary to take into account the distance between the hooks and loops on both sides, and from the width of the piece, leave from 07cm-1cm.
Speaking of linen. Sewing underwear is not difficult. By studying my tutorials you can have a wonderful collection of lingerie.

Write down which topics interest you.

Hello to all!

A long time ago, when for me "all the trees were big", I often happened to meet such aunts on whose skirts hooks played the role of a fastener. Large crochet hooks sewn with thick, coarse thread. Then, not understanding anything, I thought that the hook fastener was because of laziness and poverty.

In general, this is so and not so. So, because during the times of the total Soviet deficit, there was nothing else, and even in sufficient quantity and variety, and there was nothing. Buttons cannot be bought, buttons are generally something from the world of fantasy.

And not so, because as I got older I realized that it is not so easy to sew the hooks correctly and neatly.

Many years have passed since then, and the hooks are still alive! And they will live for a very, very long time! Because the hook closure is very strong and reliable.

Now, in our time, I have radically changed my attitude to hooks. And I consider them to be full-fledged members of the furniture community.

Now sewing lovers have another problem, no less difficult - the problem of choice. The problem is to choose the right thing, what is needed, what is right.

Well, it's time to get to know the hooks better. There are hooks - simple sewing, trouser and fur coat.

Simple sew-on hooks.

The usual traditional sew-on hooks are fighters of the "invisible front", they are never displayed.

They are designed to make a secret fastener, which should in no case be visible from the front of the product.

As a rule, sew-on hooks are placed on the garment just above the zipper (skirts and trousers without a belt) or on the waistline, at the belt itself. The location of the hook just above the zipper is made for insurance that the hook will not allow the zipper slider to fall down under pressure and will not allow the sides of the zipper to spill out during movement.

On the waist line, sew-on hooks are also assigned the role of an additional safety piece to the zipper, and they also perform the task of a full-fledged fastener on the belt. Hooks can completely replace the traditional row of buttons or a zipper.

The most common traditional sew-on hooks are also not ignored by technical progress. Sew-on hooks are produced by different manufacturers, from different metals. For example, brass, nickel, mild steel, all kinds of metal compounds (alloys), etc.

On sale you can find the most diverse in shape, color and size of hooks. Black, white, gray, silver, gold, blackened, nickel-plated, large and small, the usual shape and curved in a new, modern way.

The size of the sewn-on hook is determined by the length of both (interlocked) parts of the hook, directly by the hook and loop itself. For example, sew-on hooks can be 1, 1.4, 1.8, 3, 3.5 cm long, etc.

The hooks are available in several sizes. But when choosing hooks, I think it is hardly very important what size is written on the package. I guess you shouldn't dwell on this either. It will be enough to visually compare the appearance and dimensions of the hook with the part on which it will be "placed".

But the material from which the hook is made is very important to choose the right one. After all, the finished thing will need to be washed. So that the hooks with rust do not spoil the life of either the finished product or its owner, you need to choose hooks from materials that do not corrode, do not rust. It can be nickel, brass, or some other corrosion-resistant coated metal.

In general, choose hooks from trusted manufacturers, whose products you are already familiar with, have worked with. Or those unfamiliar, but who do not hide any information about their products (hooks), but, on the contrary, convey it to the consumer in every possible way. For example, on packages.

Large sew-on hooks are sold in one pair, and smaller ones are sold in packs, in blisters or sewn onto cardboard strips. From which customers cut off the desired number of hooks with loops.

How to sew on sew-on hooks and loops correctly?

Despite the fact that sewn on hooks sometimes look quite different from each other, the technology for sewing them to the product is very very similar.

1. Both the hook and the loop, these two parts of the sewing hook, are always placed horizontally on the garment and only on the wrong side or under the “cover” of other parts.

Consider this option for sewing a hook on a skirt belt.

As everyone knows, on women's clothing models, the right edge of the fastener always finds itself on the left. Therefore, one part of the sewing hook, the hook itself, should be located on the product (when looking at the finished product from the front side) on the left, on the inside of the belt, and the other part, the loop, on the right. Then the hook will easily catch on the loop with a natural movement of the hand along the fastener.

2. The threads for sewing on such a hook are matched to the color of the main fabric. For the thickness of the thread, the appropriate size, so that the punctures from the needle are small. You cannot tie a knot at the end of the thread.

3. So that there are no traces of the presence of sewing hooks on the front side of the product, you need to use the point of a needle, with a double-threaded thread, to penetrate into the material and make one stitch so that the end of the thread is lost in the material. And then “stomping” on the chosen place, you need to gain a foothold on it by making a few stitches

4. Both the hook and loop are sewn to the garment in two different ways. Which one to choose depends on the shape of the hook. After all, as you can see by looking at the picture in the article above, hooks and loops come with closely spaced sides of the base and wide apart.

1st option (1 in the picture below). We sew in three places. 3 - 4 securing stitches are made into both holes on both parts and 3 - 4 stitches across, the two sides of the base of the hook and loop are sewn together.

2nd option (2 in the picture below). We sew in four places. As in the previous version, 3 - 4 securing stitches are made into both holes on both parts, and then 3 - 4 stitches across, the bases of the hooks and loops are sewn, but each side is separate.

5. After once again making a few stitches back the needle, to secure the ends of the thread, pull it out of the material far to the side and carefully cut it close to the surface of the material.

6. Sometimes, in order to make the fastener on the sewing hooks even less noticeable or more plastic, flexible, then instead of a metal loop, you can make a loop of threads in a pair to the hook. How it is performed can be read

But the clasp on the model can be fastened end-to-end, and maybe overlapped. The sew-on hook is positioned differently on these two types of models.

How to position sew-on hooks and eyes on butt-closure models?

On models with a butt closure, the hook itself is positioned so that its top is at a distance of up to 3 mm from the edge of the fabric. And the other part of the sewing hook, the loop, should protrude beyond the edge of the fabric by the same distance.

This is done so that when the loop and hook are connected (interlocked with each other), the edges of the fastener come together butt to each other.

How to position sew-on hooks and eyes on overlapped models?

If the sew-on hooks perform the tasks of a full-fledged fastener on the model, then, like other ordinary fasteners (on buttons, buttons or zippers), the sew-on hooks should also be located on the product.

If the sew-on hooks will be located on the waist line, on the belt, the edges of which are overlapped, then the first thing to start with is to sew one part of the sew-on hook - the hook itself, on the left, inner side of the belt (if you look at the fastener from the front side) ... It must be sewn from the short transverse edge of the belt, at a distance that is equal to the length of the loop.

On the sewn hook, hook the second part, the sewn hook - the loop. And keeping them as stretched as possible in different directions, as if they were already working,

close the zipper and look at the end of the belt on the right side, where is the place where the loop should be located.

And with the help of pins, attach the loop to this place.